SINGING THE BLUES

We're not exactly laying around the beach here in Grenada. We dress with dignity today as many in this former British colony do...including school children who are in skirts and ties. We visit a few of the Grenadians who study the Bible with the Eszlingers. One man who identifies himself as John B. looks to be around 70 years old and stopped attending the Catholic church not long ago when the priest said he didn't like the current prime minister or, for that matter, George Bush. He said he didn't think we should preach hate. I have a feeling the priest wasn't the only one who felt that way about Bush, but I stayed neutral on that one.

We kept heading north in the small SUV along a jagged and sparsely populated coastline until we got to Sauters, the location where centuries ago the Carib Indians made a last stand against the French and then, when faced with almost certain capture and slavery, chose to jump from the cliff to their deaths en masse. A very sad but proud memorial stands in their honor. The elementary school right next door resonated with children laughing and playing on recess, an incongruous backdrop to the poignant setting. It was here that we met by pure chance another traveler named Louise Shawe, a British woman with Grenadian parents who noticed the tract in Rick's pocket. She said, "I think we know each other, don't we?" (we didn't). But she was referring to the fact that she shared our faith. She and her husband are Jehovah's Witnesses in London and she was here on a break from handling some business matters for her mother who owns property on the island. We became instant friends.

We joined forces and went all together to a gourmet meal at Belmont Estate, a nearby cacao plantation on 400 acres purchased 64 years ago for 35,000 British pounds. More good food. And we toured another venerable production facility down the road as well: The River Antoine Rum Distillery with a sugarcane press dating back to the colonial era still operating in exactly the same way it has for the last 200 years. It wouldn't pass FDA inspection, but then does any bacteria survive in a liquid that's 140 proof?

And why are we "singing the blues"? We discovered a snazzy little upstairs blues club on Young St. in downtown St. George's yesterday, met the very lighthearted, welcoming (and did I say French) lady club owner...and she convinced us to make reservations to hear Jennie J. sing tonight. The whole thing was incredibly cool. A smokin' saxophone player, and an even more on-fire guy on blues harmonica and did they JAM! A smoke-free intimate venue, only about 60 people, and we sipped white wine and watermelon smoothies and noshed on Baba Ganoush to the tune of Dave Brubeck's Take Five, Muddy Waters, and Billie Holiday. Holiday? How appropriate.

LESSON SIX: Without plans, you take more chances. You poke your head in more cracked doors, explore more side alleys. And (surprise!) you're available when there's a spontanous opportunity. Try it!