"BON-JOU"!

SIXTEEN DEGREES on New Year's morning at 4:00 a.m., my brain just about froze to my skull walking across the airport parking lot. But when we arrive to a slightly humid, balmy island breeze in St. Lucia, we are joyful. Like pregnancy, the pain is forgotten, let's get on with this baby!

Our new friends, Jodie and Leonard, are missionaries originally from South Carolina, but have lived in Vieux Fort for 19 years. In exchange for 4 1/2 lbs. of grits, they've taken us on a sight-seeing tour of their very laid-back, lush and hilly town and welcomed us into their home with southern hospitality (only really, really far south, now).

SECOND LESSON: How to Speak Creole. "Hello." (See above). "How's it going?" ("Sa-ca-fet!") "I'm fine." ("Mwen Byen."...lit. "I'm there.")

NEXT: VERY EARLY FLIGHT TO GRENADA